Markets and Mushrooms

Madrid takes pride in their Hams!

Mercado de San Miguel

Park overlooking. the Palace

View of the Palace

Statue commemorating Cervantes and Don Quixote and Sancho Panza

Close inspections shows the plate holds no food, that is the mushroom design of the plates

Asparagus with Stilton Blue Cheese and Smoked Paprika

Octopus, Potatoes and Aioli

Porcini Mushrooms with Egg

Chanterelle Mushrooms with Truffles and Eggs

Cheese Cake

After a sleepless jet lagged night, we were awakened by room service with our breakfast at 9:30. I was sound asleep and completely confused. Once we had breakfast it was time to start out on our next adventure in Madrid.

 

Not to give away the plot line, it started bad and only improved, which is not a bad way to spend a day. We knew the market we wanted to go to, and the doorman gave the taxi driver the direction. He drove us all through the crazy streets of old Madrid only to dump us out at a Mercado de San Miguel - that wasn’t the market where we intended to go.  We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the market was quite beautiful with unbelievable variety of hams, lobsters and the most gigantic sides of beef we have ever seen.

 

We then cabbed to the market we wanted to go to which only turned out to be a disappointment. So chalk it up to the Gods of Tourism being favorably inclined, the taxi driver actually took us to a better market.  We returned to our hotel, to regroup for the afternoon tour of the Spanish Civil War. We met our guide at a very old restaurant, and he spent an hour reviewing Spanish History leading up to the tragic Civil War. He was very informative and a joy to be with.

 

The Spanish Civil war is a very complex story, much too complicated to attempt to explain here. Much of it is still not talked about, there is an agreed upon silence about it. The recent Pedro Almodóvar movie Parallel Mothers does discuss it, but that is the exception. Our guide says he can't discuss it at home with his in-laws.

 

The key takeaways are that unlike the US Civil War North against South, this was a war about ideology, Monarchy vs Republique (democracy). The Monarchy stayed above the fray while Franco, supported by the Church, Rich Landowners, Nobility, the Nazis and Italian fascists (who bombed the shit out of the city) eventually forced the surrender of Madrid, ending the war. This war spit families apart for different generations of the same family could have different political views. It was brutal and Spain has never really come to terms with it. Spain, unlike Germany where there is much education, museums and historical monuments about the horrors of Nazi Germany, has no museums in Spain about the Civil War. In fact, when we visited one of the key sites, a giant sculpture where the Nationalist solders were destroyed by the Republican (Democracy and left-wing parties)  there is NO Plaque or sign saying what the sculpture represents and why it is there. There is simply silence about those events.

 

Spain was neutral in both World Wars and was simply a backward country stuck out on the Iberian Peninsula for much of the 20^th century. After World War II, when the other Fascist dictators were all dead (Hitler, Mussolini) Franco adroitly proclaimed himself not a Fascist but an Anti-communist. America loved that and the US money flowed in. Wiley old guy.

 

Our excellent guide explained all of this as we walked, journeyed via subway, taxied through Madrid to historical sites.

 

Madrid is newer Capital by European standards. It reminds us of Paris for almost all of the buildings are of the same height, although of varying architectural styles. Many are ornate and quite beautiful, others built in massive Fascist style are quite chilling to view. The streets are very narrow, and the city has an amazing outdoor life, at least in the hot summer.

 

The highlight of the tour was supposed to be a visit to see Picasso’s Guernica Painting, one of the many masterpieces on display at the various Madrid Museums. When we arrived at the museum there was a party in progress, blocking one of the entrances to the museum, resulting in long lines. We will return in the morning.

 

We returned to our Hotel and Facetimed with Barbara in San Francisco and drank Champagne and prepared for dinner.

 

We went to an amazing restaurant, El Cisne Azul, which is devoted to all things Mushrooms. It was a great choice. What a concept for a restaurant! We are getting into the swing of Madrid as we sat eating and drinking at our outdoor table until 11:30 when we walked home. Quite a day! This to us is a must return restaurant. It was one of those perfect warm nights, great food, sitting outdoors, watching the people stroll by, drinking our inexpensive Spanish wine and wishing the night wouldn’t end. Madrid is a very late-night city. We watched the people strolling home or onto a new bar or restaurant. It feels incredibly safe. As a tourist we are finding it a joy.

 

It must be mentioned that Cathy has a bad back, she has been helped by the years of Pilates that we continue to do. Especially in high heat, her back can act up. I am sure she walked more today than she has in years. We just need to accommodate her back. The walking stick helps, and we needed to briefly stop and rest. She has an indomitable spirit. When possible, we taxi or take the subway.

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