The Paella That Might Change Our Itinerary

Picasso's Masterpiece Gurinca

Hope they don't get too suntan

Las Meninas: Perspective # 1

Las Meninas: Perspective # 2

Las Meninas: Perspective # 3

Norwegian Smoked Salmon Appetizer

Best Eggplant Appetizer Ever

1st Paella

So crispy she can hold the Paella Pan vertically 

Crispy Pork Ribs

Tarte Tatin

The Kitchen

Lars and his father

  

 

We started off the morning by going to the Reina Sofia Museum, with the intention of seeing the Picasso’s masterpiece on the horrors of War: Guernica. We have studied about the picture, and it measures up to its reputation. I had last seen it in New York City before it was returned to Spain per Picasso’s instructions. It is highly symbolic of the struggle against fascism. We didn’t particularly like the Reina Sofia Museum; it is not very well documented, it is hard to make your way around, and none of the paintings have explanations beside them. However, we were happy to view the picture in person. There is so much more detail available than you can make out than from a photo in an art book. Some paintings have to be seen in person to truly appreciate the scale and subtlety of the artist.

 

We then scooted over to the Prado, one of the premier museums in the world.  The museum felt fresh and modern although the Collection is quite old . All of the paintings were well marked in both Spanish and English. For us the star attraction is the painting by Velázquez entitled Las Meninas. The painting plays with perspective as you look at it, for it seems that Velázquez who is depicted in the painting himself, as the painter, is painting someone but the subject of his painting is not in the picture but rather reflected in the mirror in the background. It seemed as if Velazquez was looking at us, and after spending time trying to catch his eye, we moved on to Goya, El Greco, and the other masters. El Greco is not for us. Goya  is our guy, though. Eventually we were not able to absorb any more art and we returned to our hotel.

 

Cathy rested and I had an excellent massage. It was time for a bottle of wine outside on the terrace then on to the best Paella we have ever eaten.

 

We went to a restaurant called: Casa Benigna. What a treat! The host, Lahrs, the son of the founder of the restaurant, is an ebullient host. He loves to tell stories of the history of the restaurant. His father is still active at 75 and was a Michelin Stared chef and creator of this Paella restaurant. The essence of paella is the rice, not the topping. And a perfect paella needs to have a crunchy thin layer of rice at the bottom of the pan. In Spanish the crust at the bottom is called: Socarrat. They make a perfect paella at Casa Benigna.

When I explained we couldn't choose between the various Paellas they offered Lahrs explained we should order two different small paellas; they would be served sequentially. We also had difficulty choosing between the appetizers, once again Lahr came to our rescue and said he would serve each as half portions, they were huge, didn’t look like half portions to me.

 

First we were served a chilled Gazpacho soup. We moved on to our chosen appetizers: half of Roasted Eggplant served with Roasted Duck and a great Tomato Compote. The eggplant was so good. I asked Lahrs for the recipe and he was happy to share the it with us, although if we make it at home, it will never be as good. If it works out, I will publish it on our blog. The other appetizer was equally as good a Norwegian Smoked Salmon Appetizer (Lahrs father is originally from Norway).

 

We loved our two different paellas. They first served us a paella made with ingredients from the sea: Shrimp and Squid. When we finished that one they brought the second paella with ingredients from the mountains: it was made using a special Smoked Rice (his father smokes the uncooked rice for 48 hours before they use it) and Iberian Pork Ribs. The Paellas are made in a special thick pan that Lahr's father designed. The rice was so solid that they could actually hold the pan almost vertically and it wouldn't fall out! Both paellas were exceptional. Both were served with Aioli. 

 

We had Tarte Tatin for dessert. The Albariño wine we drank was delicious with the meal. After the dinner was over, Lahrs took us on a tour of the kitchen and talked about his father. We had a perfect dining experience at this restaurant. The price for all of this was 129 Euros! Food and especially Spanish wines are incredibly cheap compared to what we have been paying in Los Angeles. Folks, this is a MUST eat at restaurant if you ever visit Madrid!

 

When we leave Madrid, we plan to go to Valencia for a few days. One of the highlights of our upcoming trip was to be Paella at a famous Valencian Paella restaurant Bon Aire. Our meal tonight was so perfect we are considering skipping the Paella in Valencia. We know it won’t measure up to what we just had at Casa Benigna.

 

Two travel related items surfaced today. We need to get a Covid Test within 24 hours of our departure back to the US. Because of the timing of our train trip back to Madrid from Valencia this has become a not so simple task to coordinate. The Hotel Concierge will work something out I am sure.

 

This is a travel lesson to remember. Cathy and I always carry a complete extra set of our prescriptions (and eye glasses) in case we somehow misplace our pills. Cathy needs to take Synthroid daily. She left her pills on her bed stand in a small disposable plastic pouch so she can take the pills upon awakening. When we returned from dinner, the pills were missing, apparently the turndown service, disposed of them by mistake. Luckily, we have our backup bag of pills. We highly recommend if you travel and need pills to bring a complete extra set.

 

Tomorrow brings a new adventure, and hopefully and end to this damn Jetlag, I am writing this at 3:30am! I want to sleep!